<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">
    <title>Five Million Or Bust</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/" />
    <link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/atom.xml" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008-10-02://5</id>
    <updated>2009-01-26T05:54:06Z</updated>
    
    <generator uri="http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/">Movable Type 4.21-en</generator>

<entry>
    <title>Where does my money go? </title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2009/01/where-does-my-money-go.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2009://5.84</id>

    <published>2009-01-26T10:31:37Z</published>
    <updated>2009-01-26T05:54:06Z</updated>

    <summary>I consider myself to be a smart bloke.  How is it, then, that I am not good at predicting how much money I should have left over at the end of the month?   It seems that no matter how...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Budget" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Frugal Living" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="budget" label="budget" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="savings" label="savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[<div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">I consider myself to
be a smart bloke.  How is it, then, that I am not good at predicting how
much money I should have left over at the end of the month?<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">It seems that no
matter how frugal I</span><span style="font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;
color:#333333"> <i>feel</i> </span><span style="font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;
color:#333333">I am, I did not save as much as I thought I would.  I've
thought about this one for a few years and think I have it within reach.
 It's not that I don't have enough money but I'm just not serious with
myself about how I spend it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">To illuminate the
issue I created three reports.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top:0in;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:15.0pt;margin-bottom:.0001pt;text-indent:-.25in;line-height:normal;
mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1;tab-stops:list .5in;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;
mso-bidi-font-family:Symbol;color:#333333"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·<span style="font:7.0pt &quot;Times New Roman&quot;">        
</span></span></span><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">Total Inflows versus
Outflows by Category<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top:0in;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:15.0pt;margin-bottom:.0001pt;text-indent:-.25in;line-height:normal;
mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1;tab-stops:list .5in;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;
mso-bidi-font-family:Symbol;color:#333333"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·<span style="font:7.0pt &quot;Times New Roman&quot;">        
</span></span></span><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">Inflows versus Outflows
except for Retirement<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top:0in;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:15.0pt;margin-bottom:.0001pt;text-indent:-.25in;line-height:normal;
mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1;tab-stops:list .5in;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;
mso-bidi-font-family:Symbol;color:#333333"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·<span style="font:7.0pt &quot;Times New Roman&quot;">        
</span></span></span><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">Inflows versus
Outflows sans Taxes and Retirement and Housing<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">The first report will
tell me what I have left over at the end of the month to manually deposit into
a savings account.  I have a goal amount each month and I'm just not
making it.  <o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">The second report
really allows me to see the huge tax burden (that's the name they give it, not
me) I face.  This report also removes the psychological 'happy' feelings
of having some non expense items on an expense report, which allows me to say
while that number is large, some of it is actually going to savings.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">Report number three is
the one that allows me to, in a healthy and positive way, get hold of
all of my discretionary spending and tighten down the screws on
those categories I wish to make sacrifices in <o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">I know what you may be
thinking.  It is possible to reduce housing and tax expenditures.
 You could re-finance, get a better tax adviser, lie to the IRS, etc.
 Sure - but my point here is that the (possibly) easiest thing you can
control is your discretionary spending.  You are also pointing out to me
that the majority of my outflow is in housing and taxes.  You are absolutely correct!
 I can't help you, however, in this economy deal with you having
bought too big of a house.  Also, for us starting out on
this financial journey, looking at these three reports may be the
first time we realized that taxes/housing are such a huge component of our
outflow.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">I'll admit - I'm
already pretty cheap.  I could spend less on groceries but not much.
 Using these three reports I've clearly seen that my problem is larger
electronics purchases throughout the year during moment's of weakness.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333">Today I vowed
no extraneous pending that hasn't already been planned
(vacation expenditures in my case) between now and mid May.  With this, I
will hopefully be able to make good on savings outside of retirement funds for
a down payment on a house.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;line-height:
normal;background:white"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;
mso-fareast-font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;color:#333333"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>

<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>International Travel Credit Card and Currency Nightmare</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2009/01/international-travel-credit-card-and-currency-nightmare.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2009://5.83</id>

    <published>2009-01-24T23:40:00Z</published>
    <updated>2009-01-25T00:26:05Z</updated>

    <summary>A nightmare is what I&apos;m trying to avoid.  Look on the internet and you see a great deal of people with credit cards charging &apos;unknown&apos; fees and exchange rates.  I&apos;d like to not have to pay money to spend money....</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="atm" label="atm" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="banking" label="banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="internationaltravel" label="international travel" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="travel" label="travel" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[A nightmare is what I'm trying to avoid.  Look on the internet and you see a great deal of people with credit cards charging 'unknown' fees and exchange rates.  I'd like to not have to pay money to spend money.  I've heard of spending money to make money, but this just seems backwards!<div><br /></div><div>Visa charges a 1% fee on every transaction to exchange the currency.  This is not a bad deal comparatively.  This will serve to all but wash out the 1.25% cash back I am receiving.  This all assumes, however that Visa does in fact give the appropriate exchange rates and does not utilize, as others have reported some companies doing, their computer systems finding their most profitable conversion rate out of the few days surrounding the transaction date.</div><div><br /></div><div>Converting cash seems to have much much higher fees - up to 10% based on my findings.  Then you have to convert back what you don't spend.  I found a nifty summary of some ATM and Credit card considerations at <a href="http://flyerguide.com/wiki/index.php/Credit/Debit/ATM_Cards_and_Foreign_Exchange">FlyerGuide</a>.  I will be utilizing my E-Trade ATM card for acquiring cash while overseas.</div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Prosper Update</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2009/01/prosper-update.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2009://5.82</id>

    <published>2009-01-23T05:50:40Z</published>
    <updated>2009-01-23T06:03:03Z</updated>

    <summary>I was really getting into prosper, as I had almost the amount needed for it to become self sustaining.  Then it went and filed for the ability to list some loans on a secondary market and wouldn&apos;t take any more...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Investing" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="passiveincome" label="passive income" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="prosper" label="prosper" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[I was really getting into <a href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/prosper.html">prosper</a>, as I had almost the amount needed for it to become self sustaining.  Then it went and filed for the ability to list some loans on a secondary market and wouldn't take any more applicants on until they hear back from the application board.  At any rate, I had 21 loans at prosper when it went on hiatus.<div><br /></div><div>With the economy the way it is, I of course expected the possibility of loans defaulting.  I have been prepared for that and can handle one or two failing before my returns become negative to date.  Of my 21 active loans, 1 is late and 1 is 2 months late.  The thing I'd like to point out is that of all my loans, these two have the best 'credentials' of funding.  I believe, however, I got caught up in the qualitative analysis and ignored the fact that they were borrowing a lot for their age/situation.  My loss.  </div><div><br /></div><div>My average interest rate is still about 13% and, again, while I'm still profitable and the income stream is nice (about 40 bucks a month), the real returns and gains come from the reinvestment I cannot do due to Prosper being closed.  </div><div><br /></div><div>On a side note, I finally figured out an 'ok' way to record my prosper lending activity into Quicken - all you have to do is set it up as a security which you buy and sell, always at a dollar a share, and receive dividends from.  </div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Lessons Learned from 2008</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/12/lessons-learned-from-2008.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.81</id>

    <published>2008-12-18T07:45:22Z</published>
    <updated>2008-12-18T08:02:07Z</updated>

    <summary>As the year comes to a close, I can say this has been a real eye-opener of a year for me.  Being in my mid 20&apos;s, this is the first year of negative returns I have had.  Here are the...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Investing" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="401k" label="401k" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="budget" label="budget" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="dollarcostaveraging" label="dollar cost averaging" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="roth" label="roth" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[As the year comes to a close, I can say this has been a real eye-opener of a year for me.  Being in my mid 20's, this is the first year of negative returns I have had.  Here are the top mistakes I made this year in terms of personal finance that I will not be making next year.<div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Ignoring Benefit of Dollar Cost Averaging for Roth IRA</span></div><div><br /></div><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;">I front loaded all of my Roth IRA contributions in the first two months of this year.  I thought that the market was already as far as it would go and it was a good buy.  Only time will tell whether or not those purchases were a good buy.  Next year, dollar cost averaging is the way for me.  I will purchase only no transaction fee mutual funds and will do them every month at the least.  The actual time frame will depend on minimum transaction amount per fund.  </blockquote><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Ignoring Budget</span></div><div><br /></div><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;">I had sufficient money and got careless.  New budget already created and being monitored.</blockquote><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Ignoring Diversification in 401(k)</span></div><div><br /></div><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;">Presently, I think that my play this year in having at some point all of my money go into a defensive play in March was a good one.  The fund remained steady while everything else declined.  It somewhat fell in the last quarter of 2008, but I think overall it would have been more prudent to do some balancing throughout.  I'm not committed to re-balancing yet but will be shortly.</blockquote><div><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Giving Into Heavily Beat Down Stock Prices</span><br /><div><br /></div><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;">Just like Forest Gump always said, "I'm not a smart man."  I bought the bad ones - E-Trade (<a href="http://finance.google.com/finance?client=ob&amp;q=NASDAQ:ETFC">ETFC</a>) and even worse, Fannie Mae (<a href="http://finance.google.com/finance?q=fnm">FNM</a>).  Please Rinse and Repeat - Past performance (or price) does not indicate future performance (or price).</blockquote><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;"><br /></blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Peek-a-Boo!</span><br /><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;"><br /></blockquote><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;">Just because I have a nice website and tracking software doesn't mean I should be looking daily at performance percentages - it's not healthy and doesn't make my portfolio better off.  </blockquote><blockquote class="webkit-indent-blockquote" style="margin: 0 0 0 40px; border: none; padding: 0px;"><br /></blockquote>Next year may not be better, but I have been forewarned.]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Quicken versus Money</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/12/quicken-versus-money.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.80</id>

    <published>2008-12-14T04:49:24Z</published>
    <updated>2008-12-14T05:09:53Z</updated>

    <summary>The girl and I are attempting to combine finances so that we can effectively budget on a more global scale. With my penchant for all things surrounding financial management, she&apos;s having to endure a period of dual maintenance for Intuit&apos;s Quicken Premier and Microsoft Money...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Ramblings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Technology" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="money" label="Money" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="quicken" label="Quicken" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="yodlee" label="Yodlee" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[The girl and I are attempting to combine finances so that we can effectively budget on a more global scale. With my penchant for all things surrounding financial management, she's having to endure a period of dual maintenance for <a href="Intuit's Quicken Premie">Intuit's Quicken Premier</a> and <a href="www.microsoft.com/money/default.mspx">Microsoft Money Plus Deluxe</a>.<div><br /></div><div>I have to confess  I am somewhat biased towards Money and used Money more on than off since 1997.  I have found Money switching more towards less and less functionality upgrades as the years have gone by recently and decided to try Quicken.  </div><div><br /></div><div>After about a week, I'm somewhat enthused but not impressed.  What I still fail to understand is the difficulty in synchronizing transactions through the internet.  Being in systems integration business, I understand the issues with interoperability, but <a href="https://moneycenter.yodlee.com">Yodlee Moneycenter</a> has far surpassed Money's abilities to attain transactions for the past couple years since I've been using it.  *Money Plus now utilized Yodlee to retrieve transactions.</div><div><br /></div><div>If anyone reading out there has enough clout at a 401(k) service provider to 'force' them to become friendly with automatic login through Money / Quicken, it would be appreciated to apply some force.  If this ends up being 'gun to the head' type force, please don't reference this blog post when you are arrested, but I do thank you.</div><div><br /></div><div> </div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>GE- please bring good things to my life!!!</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/12/ge--please-bring-good-things-to-my-life.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.79</id>

    <published>2008-12-03T06:52:26Z</published>
    <updated>2008-12-03T07:01:09Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[Bought some GE today at the same price it was 12 years ago.&nbsp; Got a nice 10.5% yield (they re-stated today that they were keeping their payouts for 2009 at the same levels as previously announced). &nbsp; I partially did...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Investing" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="roth" label="roth" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="stocks" label="Stocks" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[<p>Bought some GE today at the same price it was 12 years ago.&nbsp; Got a nice 10.5% yield (they re-stated today that they were keeping their payouts for 2009 at the same levels as previously announced).</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I partially did it because&nbsp;I think it'll go up, but also because I want to try to figure out this DRIP (divident reinvestment plan) enrollment process for a taxable account at E-Trade.&nbsp; I've easly signed up for&nbsp;quite a few differen't securities into the&nbsp;DRIP plans&nbsp;in my tax&nbsp;sheltered Roth IRA account,&nbsp;but&nbsp;failt to see the&nbsp;same ease of use in a general trading account.&nbsp; </p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Five Tips For High Hotel and Airline Point Valuation</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/five-tips-for-high-hotel-and-airline-point-valuation.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.77</id>

    <published>2008-10-30T05:31:58Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-30T16:34:27Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[With as much time as I spend on planes and in hotels, you'd think that I was attempting to avoid something like police or the IRS (shh, they may be reading!)&nbsp; In actuality, I do this for my job and...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Frugal Living" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Ramblings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="creditcards" label="Credit Cards" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="frugal" label="frugal" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[<p>With as much time as I spend on planes and in hotels, you'd think that I was attempting to avoid something like police or the IRS (shh, they may be reading!)&nbsp; In actuality, I do this for my job and all the travel does have some good benifits.&nbsp; I've earned well over half a million American Airline miles and close to three quarters of a million Marriott points.&nbsp; My recent redemption of these points was one of the best 'savings' I've accomplised using points.&nbsp; My <a href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/frugal-redemption-of-rewards.html">recent post about using my Amex points </a>was for gift cards at the standard value of a penny a point.&nbsp; The redemtion I'm talking about now was a much more lucritive valuation at over double that valuation.</p>
<p><strong>The Prize</strong></p>
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<p>Two roundtrip tickets on a direct flight from Chicago to Paris, France on an Amerian Airlines 767, departing on Valentine's day 2009 for 8 days 7 nights with Lodging in what will be at that time one of the top 15 Marriot Hotels in the world, the <a href="http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/parvd-renaissance-paris-vendome-hotel/">Paris Rennaisance Vendome</a>.&nbsp; </p></blockquote>
<p><strong>The Dollar Cost</strong></p>
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<p>The actual cost for the flight in US dollars was $1,935.00.</p>
<p>The actual cost for the hotel $3,390.00</p>
<p>Total actual cost $ 5,325</p></blockquote>
<p><strong>The Point Cost</strong></p>
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<p>Total American Airlines points needed 80,000.</p>
<p>Total Marriot Points needed 150,000</p>
<p>Total points needed 230,000</p></blockquote>
<p><strong>Valuation</strong></p>
<p>Amerian Airlines point valuation 2.24 pennies per point*</p>
<p>Marriott point valuation 2.26 pennies per point</p>
<p>Total point valuation 2.25 pennies per point*</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>These are not the best valuations I've attained, but the same tricks I used can be used by anyone in securing a good point valuation for airline or hotel rewards:</p>
<ol>
<ol>
<li>Book insanely early, for hotel points especially.&nbsp; They usually (check to make sure) don't charge anything for cancelling&nbsp; if it's a hotel reservation.&nbsp; Come January 15th, for example, i'm booking a couple nights for new years eve 2009 at the Marriot Marquis at Times Squre on the chance that I end up going, knowing that I may cancel.</li>
<li>Travel during off-peak seasons.&nbsp; Paris isn't at it's peak in February, but you really can't beat a trip to Paris for Valentine's day.</li>
<li>Be&nbsp;open to travel destinations and&nbsp;alternate airports.&nbsp; I&nbsp;two hour drive may save you&nbsp;50,000 points by&nbsp;flying&nbsp;to a different city.</li>
<li>Be flexible with hotel choices.&nbsp;&nbsp;For&nbsp;July&nbsp;4th this year,&nbsp;I had a 3.2 pennies per point&nbsp;valuation by staying at a hotel a few blocks away from where&nbsp;I wanted in DC (JW on Pennsylvania Avenue).&nbsp; The&nbsp;hotel was not quite as good obviously, but&nbsp;it was half the 'cost'. </li>
<li>Know the system.&nbsp; Marriott, for example, 'rewards' you by booking in seven night incriments.&nbsp; If you book 1,2,3,4,5,6,8,9,10,11,12, or 13 nights, you are paying more points per night than 7 or 14.&nbsp; American Airlines, for example, will open up more award travel to the top tier of their frequent flyer program, allowing you to book at 'shorter notice'.&nbsp; </li></ol></ol>
<p dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">Happy Travels!</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">*International Airline taxes of approximatly $140&nbsp;charged in addition to point redemption taken out of valuation calculation</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">**Starting&nbsp;January 15th at 12:01 Zulu time, it will cost the same amount of points per night for stays in length of 1,2,3, or 4 nights.&nbsp; You get the 5th night free, and the points per night increases all the way up to and including 9 nights.&nbsp; Once you do the 10th night, it's free as well.</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Frugal Redemption of Rewards</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/frugal-redemption-of-rewards.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.76</id>

    <published>2008-10-30T00:47:14Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-29T17:54:50Z</updated>

    <summary>Cooking is almost a hobby to me, and as with any hobby, can get expensive. One thing I&apos;ve done to limit my overall investment in my hobby besides budgeting is to set myself a rule that I have to use...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Frugal Living" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="creditcards" label="Credit Cards" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="frugal" label="frugal" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[Cooking is almost a hobby to me, and as with any hobby, can get expensive. One thing I've done to limit my overall investment in my hobby besides budgeting is to set myself a rule that I have to use my American Express Credit Card points (or other rewards) to pay for at least half of my hobby.  <div><br /></div><div>Last night for example, I bought a 6 Quart Kitchen Aid Stand Mixer for $28 and 40,000 American Express points.  </div><div><br />Another good example is a set of wonderful All Clad pans.  The set was half paid for by cash and the other half by good 'ole Amex Points.  </div><div><br /></div><div>The other thing that you can do is to redeem the points ONLY for things that you were already  going to buy.  In my case, the mixer and pans were on a buy list prior to points redemption.  This is counterintuitive for some people as they feel the points have no value so they aren't wasting anything when they spend them, so they splurge on things they wouldn't normally buy.  Resist this temptation!!!  If you subscribe to a magazine, think about using points instead to subscribe.  American Airlines points as well as many others offer this option.  It may not be the best points valuation redemption you can choose, but if it keeps money in your pocket, that adds a big value.</div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>College Debt - The Gift that Keeps on Giving</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/college-debt---the-gift-that-keeps-on-giving.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.75</id>

    <published>2008-10-19T21:22:14Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-19T21:48:34Z</updated>

    <summary>After securing that job out of school, college debt is the first reality check many people face.  Matt over at My Financial Recovery has gone through some tough post college love in this respect.  Let&apos;s face it, we all struggle with...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Frugal Living" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="college" label="college" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="debt" label="debt" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="frugal" label="frugal" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[<div>After securing that job out of school, college debt is the first reality check many people face.  Matt over at <a href="http://www.myfinancialrecovery.net">My Financial Recovery</a> has gone through some tough post college love in this respect.  Let's face it, we all struggle with everything from time to time and Matt is helping many people out by putting his journey on line.  What I like most about his take on things is that he understands the importance of <a href="http://www.myfinancialrecovery.net/2008/10/15/breaking-down-my-long-term-goals/">goals</a>, and actually has a pretty good eye for good <a href="http://www.myfinancialrecovery.net/2008/10/16/working-on-my-personal-finance-team-a-local-bank-account/">deals and prospects</a>.  </div><div><br /></div><div>I also really like that Matt is coming from a perspective you don't see much out there - the 20-35 year old crowd.  The most important thing in money management is that you get ahead and stay ahead - in my opinion!  Why is it that no one wants to actually talk to people young enough to get ahead and climb high.  Right out of college is the time where making the wrong decisions has the biggest effect on your long term wealth prospects but almost no effort is made to market the right things to this crowd, nor is there any rules or recommendations for what to do in the beginning of your career.  I hope this site evolves into something that beginners can utilize, not because of it's basic-in-nature content but because it addresses the  hard question of how to start.</div><div><br /></div><div>While in college - make sure you are aware of your financial position.  Don't put yourself in a position on graduation day to be shocked that your 50,000 in debt is going to take you 15 years to pay off.  If you are in a category to have more than 10,000 in debt after college, make sure you are in your college's loan office every semester to make sure you're choosing the loans you want while understanding the terms and not just think that they have your best thoughts in mind.  Apply for those alumni scholarships and federal grants that others don't ask about.  </div><div><br /></div><div>Matt <a href="http://www.myfinancialrecovery.net/2008/08/28/getting-defaulted-studet-loans-rehabilitated/">mentions</a> he has a consolidation loan with <a href="http://www.salliemae.com/">Sallie Mae</a>.  Did you know that if you do any type of overpayment, you have to Email them every time and specify that you want it to go to the loan with the highest interest rate?  I consider that crazy talk!</div><div><br /></div><div>If you've recently graduated and have some loans, please don't think that it's normal and ok to spend money however you want - take ownership in the quality of your financial life.  </div><div><br /></div><div>Having the perfect path to the end goal isn't as important as having an end goal.</div><div><br /></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>The Pains of a Roth 401k</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/the-pains-of-a-roth-401k.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.74</id>

    <published>2008-10-18T18:57:19Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-18T19:06:01Z</updated>

    <summary>What is the quickest way to ensure you don&apos;t get a big head about a raise or promotion?  Couple that extra (hopefully deserved, you know who you are!) money with a switch from a traditional to Roth 401k.  Not only...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="401k" label="401k" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="retirement" label="Retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="roth" label="roth" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[What is the quickest way to ensure you don't get a big head about a raise or promotion?  Couple that extra (hopefully deserved, you know who you are!) money with a switch from a traditional to Roth 401k.  Not only will the increased salary increase your annual contribution if not already maxed out, but it would convert the extra money you earned, and probably more, to additional taxes you'd pay.  This doesn't make sense for everyone by any means, but if you are worried that bringing home more money will just make you waste it and perhaps you've already maxed out your Roth IRA and Traditional 401k, this could be an option that works for you. <div><br /></div><div>I will however point out, that something just feels weird if you couple less take home pay with a promotion as I have done.  I 'know' I'm getting a better value, but surely don't feel it.  </div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Turning $2,000 into $5,250,000 in 33 years</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/turning-2000-into-5250000-in-33-years.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.73</id>

    <published>2008-10-17T17:43:52Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-17T18:07:45Z</updated>

    <summary>With the battered economy, somewhat risky investments into possibly undervalued high dividend  stocks could be the way to score big over time.  One such stock - Allied Capital (ALD) is trading below 8 when it&apos;s 52 week high was near 30....</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Investing" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="retirement" label="retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="roth" label="roth" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="stocks" label="Stocks" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[With the battered economy, somewhat risky investments into possibly undervalued high dividend  stocks could be the way to score big over time.  One such stock - Allied Capital (<a href="http://finance.google.com/finance?client=ob&amp;q=NYSE:ALD">ALD</a>) is trading below 8 when it's 52 week high was near 30.  If they kept up their current annual dividend, this would give it a yield of over 34%!  Obviously there are a ton of risks here inherent to not only the market, but this stock specifically and a likelihood in my opinion that the dividend will be cut and then rebound.<div><br /></div><div>There are many ways to calculate this, and if you do so, you notice that the slower the stock's price appreciates, the more money in the end you'll have as your dividend reinvestments are able to buy more shares up front.    <div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">The Math </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div><div>I assumed purchasing 250 shares at price of 8 dollars per share (2k).  I used the dividend yield of 32.5% - the assumed yield if the dividend remained the same next year.  I assumed a 5 percent annual stock price increase and a 2 percent annual dividend yield increase.  At the end of 33 cycles, this gives a little over $5.25 mil.  Assuming you do this inside of a Roth vehicle such as an IRA, the dividends wouldn't be taxed.  </div><div><br /></div><div>This speculative play may be just what my portfolio and psyche needs!  Even if it doesn't return my millions, it will deliver some hope (until the stock goes under). </div></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Five Million Or Bust!</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/five-million-or-bust.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.72</id>

    <published>2008-10-12T17:19:34Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-12T18:07:49Z</updated>

    <summary>What&apos;s with that website title, Guy?$5,000,000 (five million dollars) is the amount of money I feel I will need to have amassed to retire when I&apos;m 50 (for me, in 2033).  One of the things I have going for me...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Frugal Living" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Investing" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="retirement" label="Retirement" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[What's with that website title, Guy?<div><br /></div><div>$5,000,000 (five million dollars) is the amount of money I feel I will need to have amassed to retire when I'm 50 (for me, in 2033).  One of the things I have going for me is that my goal is in terms of 2033 dollars, not present day dollars (which would make my actual goal if I did it the other way an unthinkable 11.x million!)  With five million dollars, an easily attainable yearly 5% would effectively generate $250,000 in interest to live on.  Adjusting this value to present day numbers, that's roughly 100k a year.  <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>To reach my goal:</div><div><br /></div><div><ul><li>Work until I retire hopefully at the age of 50 in 2033</li><li>Contribute maximums to my Roth 401k yearly, realizing any employer matching into a traditional 401k account</li><li>Contribute maximums to a Roth IRA account yearly until I reach an income level that requires me to only contribute to a traditional</li><li>Living frugally in more areas than not</li><li>Work on building more passive types of income streams</li><ul><li>Fund Prosper (Peer to Peer / P2P lending) with an amount that makes it self perpetuating</li><li>Website ad revenue (thanks for visiting my 'sponsors'!)</li><li>More suggestions welcome!</li></ul><li>Investing in the Stock Market </li><li>Seizing opportunities that come my way</li><li>Sucking up my pride and accepting charitable donations!</li></ul><div><br /></div><div>There, I've stated my goal and action plan to attain it.  Wish me luck! </div></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Top 10 Ways to Save Money at Costco</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/top-10-ways-to-save-money-at-costco.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.71</id>

    <published>2008-10-11T19:02:29Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-11T18:46:43Z</updated>

    <summary>Only buy items you need, not want.Shop weekly to get familiar with their prices and offerings, enabling you to spot values and get knowledgeable of general prices per unit to compare to other stores/sales pricesBuy only those things that will not expire...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Frugal Living" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="discount" label="Discount" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="frugal" label="Frugal" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="shopping" label="Shopping" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[<div><ol><li>Only buy items you need, not want.</li><li>Shop weekly to get familiar with their prices and offerings, enabling you to spot values and get knowledgeable of general prices per unit to compare to other stores/sales prices</li><li>Buy only those things that will not expire before you can consume them.</li><li>Analyze your spending and identify items you buy in small quantities regularly.</li><li>Buy the staples - you know their normal prices and can lock in a good deal.</li><li>Ignore specialty items unless you've done your research -  If you really needed that Garmin, you'd already know the going price for that model anyway, wouldn't you?</li><li>Stay away from junk food.  It might be cheaper here, but the health benefits save you quite a bit of money in the end if you buy the apples in bulk and not the cookies.</li><li>Compare their online price to store price - many times they are actually cheaper online, many times in the store.  Drops online may indicate a future drop in the store or future discontinued item.  Wii games for example are up to 10% cheaper online and doing some research on a Nikon Digital SLR camera, there were much better kit lenses available online than in the store.</li><li>Avoid weekend crowds.  The biggest bang for your time spent is knowing prices to be able to spot values.  If you can't take your time and observe, you won't be able to spot the values.</li><li>Don't buy for convenience.  Products that are marketed with convenience in mind are usually charging you for it.</li></ol></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Pentagon Federal Credit Union Review</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/pentagon-federal-credit-union-review.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.70</id>

    <published>2008-10-10T18:25:14Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-11T08:14:51Z</updated>

    <summary>I have mentioned the Pentagon Federal Credit Union, or PenFed (or even PFCU), in an earlier post regarding it&apos;s Platinum Cash Rewards Visa Credit Card.  While this is a great enough value in my opinion to warrant getting an account at PenFed, I thought...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="banking" label="banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="banks" label="banks" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="creditcards" label="Credit Cards" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="creditunions" label="Credit Unions" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="reviews" label="Reviews" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="roth" label="roth" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="savings" label="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[I have mentioned the Pentagon Federal Credit Union, or PenFed (or even PFCU), in an <a href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/banks-failing-why-not-unionize.html">earlier post</a> regarding it's Platinum Cash Rewards Visa Credit Card.  While this is a great enough value in my opinion to warrant getting an account at PenFed, I thought a full review was in order.  After all, I have been banking at Pentagon Federal for a decade and have given almost all their products a run through.<div><br /></div><div>This rather thorough review is divided up into three sections:</div><div><br /></div><div><ul><li>Accessibility</li><li>Products</li><li>Summary</li></ul><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Disclaimer:  This review is based on my personal experiences and observations and confers no recommendations upon any recipient of the information herein. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Accessibility</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Overview</span> - In general, PenFed is as accessible as any other banking institution except for the fact that you won't be able to go to a brick and mortar bank to deposit coins/checks - that needs to be done via the mail (but who really likes going to the bank anymore anyways?)  They make it easy to transact with your money, and have been more than helpful on the phone even when compared to a bank teller in a brick and mortar bank.  Visit their <a href="https://www.penfed.org/aboutUs/contactUs.asp">contact </a>page for more information.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Joining</span> - PenFed is a Credit Union and thus has <a href="https://www.penfed.org/howToJoin/overview.asp">requirements for membershi</a>p.  If you do not meet any of the free options (most military in nature), there is an affiliation with the <a href="http://www.nmfa.org">National Military Family Association</a> which is $20 to join for a year - making it easy for anyone to join (you don't have to renew your membership in NMFA to keep your PenFed affiliation). </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Website</span> - Their <a href="http://www.penfed.org">website</a> is fairly simple to understand and use, while a little bit annoying at times, it is less so than the other banking sites I have used.  You can do almost anything through their website from print and mail in a form (change in dependents for an account to a charge dispute for your credit card) as well as bypass paper forms and use their online application web-forms for opening a new account (auto loan, checking account).  It is sometimes annoying to have to print out a form and mail it, but they almost always will offer to mail you forms as well as return envelopes upon request.  </div><div><br /></div><div>To log in, go directly to their main page. At the top left of the main page's content, you'll see a place to enter a user id.  Features put it at par or above in function and ease of use with other major banking sites - online or brick and mortar.  The biggest issues I have with the website is an obnoxiously placed ad for their own products between the top menu bar and the summary of your accounts, requiring you to scroll a bit to see all your accounts if you have more than 3 or 4.  The other big annoyance is an unnecessary click to show Equity and other Line of Credit accounts on your main accounts page.  Most of the time I log in only to pay my credit card or just check all balances - each of these uses of the website requires me to show my Credit Card.  I see why they did it - they show you  your banking (savings/checking accounts) without the credit and the retirement accounts to save server querying but it adds an extra click per session for me.  This is compounded when I log in to view a statement, but they don't show up on my statements list unless I've elected to show credit cards on the home page for that session, resulting in me backtracking, showing the credit accounts, and then going back to statements.  Aside from these slight delays, there is not much else that is problematic on the website.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Phone</span> - This is where the impressiveness of PenFed really stands out.  I'm a very needy consumer and, as such, make quite a few calls with requests for very specific information and special needs that I imagine most consumers don't spend the time on.  Outside of one individual being quite unhelpful with a request about how the process of disputing a credit card charge worked (I think she was one of those people who can't answer a question without knowing ahead of time what the full reasoning for the question is), I have not been more impressed with a call center staff in any other relationship I am a part of where I am the consumer.  They are always available to talk except I believe for Christmas and new years, and always either find the answer for you (almost always the case) or go and ask people who can.  You almost never get moved around between departments (except in the event of specific questions asked to a loan agent or to their technical team about website suggestions should you need to provide them :)).  Every once in a while you will be put on hold to wait for an agent, but those hold times have never been for me over 5 minutes and are the exception not the rule.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Mail </span>- There is an increased need to communicate to PenFed via the mail since you cannot usually go into one of their <a href="https://www.penfed.org/aboutUs/branchLocations.asp">branch locations</a> due to their limited number.  This is actually quite easy, and only throws up some concerns regarding mail deposits - specifically, what happens if I send a few checks to deposit and they get lost in the mail?  Well this will happen to some, but hasn't happened to me.  They have a recommendation to send it with a delivery receipt on it via USPS.  I do not bother.  Worst case scenario, you have to have the checks canceled and re-issued.  I submit about three check deposits a year, so I don't really have an issue with this.  However if I had to submit checks each week, this may be more of a concern.  PenFed is very quick in depositing you the money, and will even make it immediately available (see below section about Home Deposits).  They do have a few different addresses to mail different things to, but spell it all out on their contact page.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Automatic Teller Machines</span> - This is actually what most people are concerned about with the non-traditional banking options that an institution like PenFed - How can I get cash when I need it without paying tons of fees?  Well, let me tell or remind you that I do not pay banking feels and have never NEEDED to use someone else's ATM network with PenFed though have on less than a handful of occasions (i.e. Vegas).  PenFed belongs to the largest national network of ATM Machines.  Yep, I just said that PenFed has more ATM's out there than Bank of America!  Search for yourself <a href="https://www.penfed.org/aboutUs/atms/other.asp">here</a>.  Around me, I have a local credit union, liquor store, two mall locations, a Target, and a Costco all within actual walking distance of my suburban apartment with surcharge-less ATM machines. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: '-editor-proxy';">Products</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">New and Used Auto Loans</span> - This was something I was nervous about when I went into it, but found that PenFed's process for acquiring loans was much more simple than I could have imagined.  I went online, logged-in, put some information in a form (not having picked out the vehicle, I just asked for a lump sum for a new car), and was immediately approved.  They sent me a check which I wrote out to the dealer and the loan was made.  I paid off the loan faster than I had to, which I did without penalty (don't ever take a loan that doesn't let you pay it off early without a penalty!). I also got a very decent rate that I was not able to replicate at the time.  When it came time to get my title deed back, they did so promptly without any work on my part - they contacted me.  The only thing I would have changed in the entire process would be the fact that when you submit a loan request it doesn't lock you into the rate until they actually create the loan - in this case receive the check from the dealership.  I understand the logic in this, but still do not think it is necessary.  </div><div><div> </div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Bill Pay</span> - Bill Pay is free and simple for a list of a few thousand payees and about $5 a month for an unlimited number of payees including manually added in names/addresses.  If you send out enough checks to make this worth the postage, then you're golden.  I did not and never paid for the service, though must admit it is pretty slick.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Home Deposit Service</span> - The most frustrating product by far I've dealt with is the Home Deposit Service, though I can see the benefits for many.  This service allows you to type in the check information for checks you are mailing in, and gain access immediately to the funds.  There are a good deal of rules regarding this, and a quite low limit (which can be increased if you call them, but was still lower than I'd like for the way I was using the service).  I had a problem where I put the wrong stamp on some of my checks i mailed in, and thus, they didn't get to PenFed within the window of time I had.  The immediately canceled my ability to use this service.  Thinking that my checks have been lost, I wanted them to give me the information about the 6 checks I had sent them so I could have them re-issued.  My frustration was pretty high with this process due to the fact that their IT/IS department runs the service and not the normally helpful group.  I no longer use this service as they were contemptuous<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"> </span>when I explained the situation.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Home Loans</span> - While I have never acquired a home loan from PenFed, I have gone through the process/discussions with their mortgage brokers and found them to be a very helpful group.  I was specifically inquiring about the differences in their loan acceptance practices/requirements for first home versus investment home loans.  They were quite informative and if I were going through a program to acquire a home loan, they would be the first group I would look towards, even if they were up to a half a percentage point higher than others (though I don't think they are). </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Credit Cards</span> - I've had multiple credit cards at PenFed from their gold visa with a low APR to their 'best in class' rewards card the Visa Platinum Cash Rewards card.  There is not a great deal that differentiates credit card providers from each other, though I have to say PenFed is absolutely on-top of their game with identifying fraudulent activity and stopping it.  They aren't as annoying as my other cards have been, they are accurate when they find fraudulent charges.  They are also no-pressure when it comes to owning the card - I pay it off ever month and have never had a problem with them.  I absolutely despise it when a Credit Card company or broker will change my terms without my permission - i.e. increasing the limit on my card.  I get my cards so that I am at 20 or so percent utilization on them.  If you increase my limit, that changes and I may not look as favorably if I need another line of credit.  I also hate it when a company will continue to look at my credit after I have a card with them - PenFed doesn't do that.  Now if they could only remove any type of credit card solicitation in mailed statements, their website, and via phone due to the fact I already have the card - that'd be something!</div><div><br /></div><div>Checking Accounts - PenFed checking accounts are pretty standard.  They have a very low minimum, don't pay interest, and checks/debit cards  and transactions/atm cards are free.  I personally utilize a discount broker that pays a few percent on the amount in the checking account instead of the PenFed Checking account, but it is a very low fee/maintenance account that I would recommend to others.  </div><div><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Savings/Money Market Savings Accounts</span> - Savings and Money Market Saving's Accounts are easily available (and your base Savings account is free and required for membership).  I personally find better rates for storing my money than PenFed's Savings and MMSA accounts .  Check our rates <a href="https://www.penfed.org/productsAndRates/overview.asp">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Individual Retirement Accounts</span> - Roth or Traditional IRA's are available from PenFed, though I do not suggest getting an IRA with PenFed as they do not have any convenient vehicles to invest through aside from Certificate's of Deposit.  </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Certificates of Deposit</span> - Whether used on their own or as investment vehicles inside of a retirement account, the yields offered on PenFed'd CD's are comparable with other institutions but slightly below online banks trying to pull you in with high yield savings accounts and CD's.  They offer 6 month, 1,2,3,4,5, and 7 year certificates with locked in rates.  They are easy to acquire and the penalty for early redemption isn't that significant if you really needed to get your money (months/year's worth of paid interest).</div><div><br /></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Summary</span></div><div><br /></div><div>The Pentagon Federal Credit Union (<a href="http://www.penfed.org">www.penfed.org</a>) is a superior banking alternative due to its high quality customer service, higher ease of use than normal product offerings, and straightforward attitude concerning consumer/institutional relationship.   </div></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Top Five Reasons to have an Emergency Fund</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/archive/2008/10/top-ten-reasons-to-have-an-emergency-fund.html" />
    <id>tag:www.fivemillionorbust.com,2008://5.69</id>

    <published>2008-10-08T04:37:44Z</published>
    <updated>2008-10-08T17:32:02Z</updated>

    <summary>Before I give you my top five reasons why I think a young person should have an Emergency / Rainy Day fund of 3-6 months of your expenses in a liquid savings account, let me make a big distinction between...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Guy </name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    <category term="banking" label="banking" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    <category term="savings" label="Savings" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://www.fivemillionorbust.com/">
        <![CDATA[Before I give you my top five reasons why I think a young person should have an Emergency / Rainy Day fund of 3-6 months of your expenses in a liquid savings account, let me make a big distinction between what I mean when I say Rainy Day and what others may say.  When I say Rainy Day fund it's not what it's rainy outside and you want to spend some money indulgently on the internet or elsewhere.  It is, however, for the day you lose your job - period.  You should have insurance for health issues and car insurance for a fender bender.  This is only for loosing your source of income and holding you over for 3-6 months until you find another job.<div><br /></div><div><ol><li>Eases your mind</li><li>Avoid high rate short term credit</li><li>Not have to settle as much on new employment opportunities</li><li>Yearly interest on amount in a high yield savings account (3% sounds better right now than -30% doesn't it?)</li><li>Long term vacation options between jobs becomes a reality</li></ol><div><br /></div><div>Most of the people who are looking at this are in their twenties or early thirties.  If you have children or truly dependent dependents, 6 months is the way to go, not 3.  If it's just you (and maybe a cat) then 3 months should be enough.  Realize, however, that no matter how much you're going to make later on (unless you're making 7 figures plus) it won't feel easier to save money.  No matter how much you made yesterday, if you lose your job today, you're going to feel the same way.  Save 6 months of your expenses and be financially responsible - your mom isn't going to want to have you move back in and she's not going to want to hear why you lost your job because your boss was a tool (and if you work for me, there is no way that your mom is going to believe I'm a tool!)</div></div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

</feed>
